I get a lot of the same questions when it comes to the puppies. Everyone is trying to get prepared for their new baby to come home. And the last thing I want is for you to spend money on unnecessary items. And I don’t want you to freak out and get worried about what to do and what not to do. So I’m here to ease your mind on some things. And by all means, please ask me any questions that you have. I want this adoption process to go as smoothly as possible.

The answers I give is based solely from what we have experienced raising our Saints and breeding. It also comes from what our vet tells us. BUT every breeder is going to have their own experiences and opinions. And every vet will have their own opinions as well. So please just take this as advice, but for sure ask your own vet what he/she suggests. Then you can make the best judgment for you and your family. Also, the pictures of products that I show are not because I’m an affiliate of that company or brand. It’s just a picture of the product so you have a general idea of what I’m talking about. My suggestion is to shop around to see where you can find the products the cheapest: Chewy, Amazon, Tractor Supply, Rural King, Petsmart, etc.

Question #1: I’ve read online that a puppy should come home with it’s mama’s scent on a blanket or on a toy. Can that be done for the puppy?

Answer: Well that would possibly work if the puppy still hung around with mama the whole entire time. But when we start weaning the puppies, they have little to do with mama. We want mama’s milk to dry up and the puppies not revert back to wanting her milk instead of food and water. They need to be completely weaned so that when they go to their forever home, there are no issues. We have 5 adult Saints. When we got each one of them, from different breeders, none of them sent us home with a scented blanket or toy. It just doesn’t do anything for the puppy. The main thing is to make sure he/she feels safe and loved. As soon as you get him/her home: show him/her where the food and water is, show him/her some toys, and where he/she is going to sleep. Let him/her explore but be there by his/her side so all is well. That’s all that is needed.

Besides this, they are around me just as much as they are their mama and the other 4 adult dogs we have. The puppies are around all kinds of scents on the farm. Therefore, we don’t send anything with the puppy that has mama’s scent on it.

Questions #2: What do we do about a collar?

Answer: While the puppy is little a regular collar is fine and a leash. A lead collar works fine upon picking him/her up. However, these puppies grow up to be the giant breed. They will be very strong, and a regular collar will do no good. My husband is 6′ and strong. These dogs can pull him around the yard when he takes them for walk, if they see something they want to go after. And that’s walking each one individually. Even at age 4 months, they are going to show strength, and it will only get stronger as they grow. At 4 weeks, they can move a water dish full of water, across the room with their teeth. Hence, why they were used to rescue in the Alps. They’re strong!

We have found the best way to help keep them in control is to use chokers and a durable leash. I’m not talking the kind that have spikes. See the picture below. Of course, buy according to their size. Just know that their necks will get to be the extra large size, so something over 26″ eventually will need to be bought. And make sure the leash is of strong material as well. Nothing thin and cheap. You’re walking a Saint Bernard, not a small, medium, or even large dog. Remember that Saints can be territorial. So when going for walks, be mindful that he/she might think another human or animal is a threat to you or to his/her territory. That’s why the choke collar really helps. And the choker doesn’t come off as easy as a regular collar. Make sure you do a lot of training on the leash. You’re going to be walking a dog that’s 120-200 pounds and strength like no other. You do not want the dog to be out of control while on walks.

Question #3: How much exercise do Saint Bernards need?

Answer: Saints will not want to go for very long walks. They get tired and thirsty. If you’re planning on hiking or going for long walks, please make sure to give breaks and give him/her plenty of water. These cute little water bottles they have for sale, do not work for Saints. They drink water like camels. So be prepared to offer lots of water. They tend to do “bursts” of running and playing, but then just want to rest. And those “bursts” only tend to last maybe 10 minutes or so. Not very long at all. They do need exercise, but not an over abundance for sure.

Question #4: What do you do about a name tag?

Answer: I think it’s very important the puppies have name tags, their rabies tags, microchip tags, and AKC reunite tags. We live out on a farm. None of our dogs wear collars. However, I keep all of their tags in their individual information file folders. They are microchipped so if they would ever get loose, they can be tracked back to us. My advice to you, if you are going to have him/her wear a collar, is to keep the tags on the collar, especially if you take him/her for walks. But I would also advise you take the collar off of him/her at night so that his/her neck can have a break and breathe.

When you register you baby with the AKC, they will automatically send you a welcome invite to AKC Reunite. You don’t have to buy an AKC Reunite tag, but we did for just another step of safety for our dogs. This tag will have his/her name on it, as well as their AKC number. That number is a link to your baby specifically and will have his/her address on file. They have a variety of different styles and colors for their tags. And please remember, it’s very important that you keep the AKC, AKC Reunite, and the microchip company updated on any address and phone changes.

The two types of microchip companies that we are aware of and use are M.A.R.R.S. and Homeagain. M.A.R.R.S. is just the one time fee, and Homeagain charges a yearly fee. Again, it’s another step in ways for your puppy/dog get back to you if he/she gets lost and someone takes him/her to the vet.

Question #5: What kind of bedding do we use for the puppy?

Answer: If you buy and use a crate, please know that you need the XXL size crate. It’s the 54″ size, the biggest they have. They are over $160 most places. It is a waste of money to buy any of the smaller ones and change them out as he/she grows. They grow fast, and any crate that is smaller than the XXL will not work at all. We used them for a little while for their sleeping area, when we had the dogs inside. And even the XXL was a bit confining for them. Also realize that size of crate will take up a lot of space in your home. So make sure you put it in a location that you are comfortable with. Above all, please DO NOT keep the dogs in the crate all the time. They should never be treated like prisoners. They need their freedom. Any animal that is cooped up in a cage or crate for too long, will become mean and depressed. Please do not do that to any animal.

As far as bedding, Saints want it cold. They may sleep on the furniture, in your bed, or on a dog pillow, but it will only be a few minutes. It just makes them too hot. When our dogs were inside, they would choose to sleep on the wood or tile floors or the cement floor in the unfinished basement. They were free to sleep on the furniture or carpet, but they always ended up on the cooler surfaces. Even when we used their crates at night time, I tried to put soft blankets for them to lay on, and they would just shove them to the corners and sleep on the crate bottom.

If you’re going to get a bedding though, choose the biggest size pillow for him/her. Not the kind that has sides. Just a gigantic pillow. No smaller than 51″ and even that, I can’t guarantee he/she won’t outgrow it. Saints can grow to be 26-30″ tall average. Saints grow fast. So to save money, just start off with buying the products that he/she will grow into, instead of wasting money on medium size, large size, XL size, and then giant size.

Question #6: What should I use to groom my puppy?

Answer: The best grooming brush we have found for our dogs is the shedding blade brush. It really gets to the bottom of the fur and releases the loose fur. The gloves are just horrible to work with in our honest opinion. The regular brushes gather the fur but it is a pain to release it out of the brush. The blade is super easy to use and does a great job. We recommend brushing regularly. The longer the fur, the more brushing will be needed. I absolutely love the rake comb and the slicker brush. I think they do a great job.

Bathing the puppy is going to be a chore. We recommend wearing your swimsuit because you’re going to get wet. As a puppy it’s not too much of a problem. But as he/she grows, it’s going to get more challenging and you’ll need help. We recommend using the wand type sprayer to help. It can be attached to your shower head or your hose. It makes the job a lot easier and faster to do. And please use a gentle shampoo on the puppies. I actually was told by a vet to use Dawn liquid soap because it’s safer on puppies and dogs. Whatever you use, just choose something that is gentle on their skin.

Question #7: Do you recommend pet insurance?

Answer: Not really. When we first got Bear, we bought it. It was expensive. We paid over $100 a month for it. And like a typical insurance company, I had to argue a lot of times to get them to pay for what they claimed they’d pay for. It just wasn’t worth the expense or the aggravation. Just put money aside to help with vaccine shots, heartworm meds, etc.

Question #8: What do you do for the health of your dogs/puppies?

Answer: For the health of all our dogs and puppies, we make sure they get the vaccinations that are required as well as the proper deworming. And we go by the schedule that our vet recommends. They are on heartworm preventative meds all year around. We put a lot of money into our dogs and puppies, and we want them to live a long healthy and happy life. So we will follow the vets recommendations. If one of them gets injured or gets sick, if we can’t fix it or figure it out, it’s a trip to the vet’s office. Our animals are like family to us. So we treat them as such.

We do recommend the following: joint supplements as they get older. Most dogs tend to have hip issues and arthritis as they get elderly, so the supplement can help. A lot of Saints suffer with allergies, so we give our dogs over-the-counter allergy meds.

Saints are notorious for their droopy eyes. Keep a bottle of saline on hand to flush out their eyes when needed. And be sure to watch their eyes to make sure they do not need any medical attention. Ectropion is a condition in which the lower eyelid sags or rolls outward. It can happen with Saints because they have droopy eyes. So just be aware of that.

Also, Saints have a tendency to have bladder infections. Give them Cranberry pills daily to help keep their system healthy. Their ears sometimes get a build up and bother them. Make sure you clean them out gently and carefully. And if they get hurt, aspirin is okay to give them for a short time and low dosage.

Again, please ask your vet if you have questions or the dog shows signs of sickness or injury. These are just some of things we do to keep our dogs healthy and it’s been approved by our vet. Your vet may suggest other things.

As far as getting them neutered/spayed, most vets say not to get them fixed until around 12-18 months of age. Males for sure after 12 months, and females after their first heat. But some vets say wait longer. So please verify with your vet what he/she recommends for their health and being fixed.

Upon picking up your puppy from us, he/she will have been dewormed 1-2 times. We usually do the 3 week and 6 week mark. Some recommend starting at 2 weeks. But we feel that starting at 2 weeks is too young to start such a treatment. Deworming can cause diarrhea and vomiting as side effects. We want our puppies older, stronger, and heavier before they start getting any side effects. Your vet will probably want to deworm a few more times after you get your puppy home. Then at the time the vet decides is right, he/she will put the puppy on a monthly heartworm medicine. Please keep your puppy on this heartworm medicine. The worms get into their blood stream and it can become life threatening. So it’s worth buying for the health of your dog. Our Saints are on Interceptor Plus, and it is prescribed by our vet. For the deworming, you can have the vet do this or buy at your local pet stores. We like the Sentry because it’s a liquid that we put in their mouths personally, and it’s easier to make sure each puppy gets the right amount according to their weight. They do offer powder form as well.

We make sure our puppies have their first round of shots around the 6-7 week mark. It’s imperative that you continue the vaccinations as scheduled so that your puppy has a strong head start on living a healthy life. If you cannot afford to go to the vet for vaccinations, there are alternatives that you can get at pet stores. However, the vet will have to be the one that does the rabies shot and the microchip as well. With the vaccination alternatives, you have to feel comfortable enough to use a syringe to give the shot yourself. Below is a highly recommended choice from a reputable company. It’s what we use, and it gives the puppies a good round of protection against various sicknesses and diseases.

I know there are others out there that use homeopathic vets, and they do things a bit differently. If that is you and you are adopting one of our puppies, please let me know that you do not want me to give the puppy the vaccine shot. I will respect your wishes, and let your vet do his/her thing. Whatever choice you make, just make sure you follow the schedule that is recommended by your vet, for the health of your puppy. And realize that where you live will have an effect on what vaccines are recommended and what ones can be skipped. Below is a typical schedule for puppy/dog vaccines.

Kennel cough vaccine I would recommend if you plan on ever putting your dog in the mix of other dogs, like at a kennel or a pet care facility. My husband had a dog that got the kennel cough at a pet care facility. He only had the dog in there for a few days while they went on vacation. The dog was in perfect health up until that stay. After that, the dog constantly had breathing, allergies, and sinus issues. It was horrible. So please use good judgment whatever you decision becomes.

This is in part why we do the deworming and first round of vaccine shots here and not at the vet. We don’t want to expose our puppies to other animals or people until they have the first vaccine in them. However, for anyone that requires a certificate of health for the airplane travel, I will take the puppy to the vet to get that certificate.

Question #9: What are your suggestions for training the puppy?

Answer: Start immediately. Saints are smart, and they like to please their owners. They can be stubborn, but they’ll learn it if you stick with it. Bear was a very quick learner. We had an older dog that helped Bear learn what was right and wrong, and even taught him how to go to the door to let us know it was potty time. Bear, in turn, did the same thing for all the other Saints that we have. He learned what his property lines were as well through the use of the underground wire and shock collar. He learned very quick where he could run up to and where to stop. He refused to take the shock. A couple of the girls, on the other hand, didn’t care if they got shocked. If they saw a bird or rabbit, they took the shock to go for the chase. They just happen to be hunters and stubborn. So we had to build a fence to keep them in. So each puppy will be different, but they can learn. You need to be consistent with them. It’s just like raising a child. Heidi, my childhood Saint, was free to roam our 5 acre farm property. She would sometimes wonder off, but she always came home. She knew where her home was and who fed and loved her. So use your own judgment on how much freedom you want to give the puppy. At puppy stages, I would definitely encourage a fence if he/she is going to be outside. Once he/she gets older, he/she can defend himself/herself. Then it would be safer. Again, you know your territory best, so use good judgment for the safety of the puppy.

Potty training is the same thing. Consistency is key. I do my best to work with the puppies to help them understand. But they will have an adjustment time of learning where they are expected to go potty at their new home. I have used the disposable potty pads. They do fine. I have used the artificial grass pads. They seem to do a better job because all dogs go outside to go potty, which is in the grass. These grass pads are easy to wash off and the pee goes to the bottom of the tray, which can be dumped and cleaned with ease as well. People are having a lot of success with hanging bells at the door. The dog learns to hit the bells so the owners know he/she has to go outside. Whatever you do, consistency wins. You can never waver from that. They’ll get confused. And having a stubborn side, they will test their limits to see how far you let them go. So stick with it. They do learn.

Question #10: What kind of dog food do you recommend and food dishes?

Answer: We have used IAMS for large breed and Purina Puppy Chow Complete. We have not seen one dog food brand that is better than the other. There are some very expensive brands out there that have a good reputation, but we aren’t willing to break the bank when we can get a quality brand cheaper. Some people fix their own dog food and that’s great as well. I have 5 saints and occasionally puppies to feed. I’d never leave the kitchen if I had to fix the food! Whatever you do, don’t waste money on small bags. Trust me when I say the 30 lb bags will go quickly, and eventually you’ll be buying the 50 lb bags.

We also give the adults table scraps. I know some people are against that, but dogs have been given scraps since Bible times. We don’t give them bones from any meats that we eat though. Small bones like that can get lodged in their throat. So please don’t feed them small bones off your plate.

When you pick up your puppy, we’ll give you a small ziplock baggie that has the puppy food we are using. Whatever you decide to use, just mix what we give you with what you’re using for a few days. That will give your puppy a chance to get used to the new food, and less likely to get sick from the initial shock. Our vet suggests to do the mix to help the cause, and we totally agree with this.

As they grow up and reach the adult stages, you will take them off of puppy food. That’s usually around ages 12-18 months. Ask your vet what he/she advises. We have used IAMS for large breed adult food as well as Tractor Supply’s Retriever, Rural King brand, and Alpo adult dog foods. Our Saints have loved all the brands and had no issues with any of them. Now, some Saints may have an allergy to chicken. So just be aware of that. If there seems to be some type of reaction when he/she eats chicken, please avoid giving that to eat. We have never experienced that, but I know other people have with their Saints.

As far as food stands, my suggestion is use the kind that grows with the puppy. Having the dishes on the floor is great at the puppy stage, but he/she is going to get big. It’s easier on their joints if the bowls are up higher, if possible. But also, it’s most important to help them to swallow the food and water easier. And the bigger the bowls, the better! Be aware that some puppies are terrified of the shinny metal bowls. I think they see their reflection and it scares them. So you may have to start with plastic type of bowls or ones that will not reflect their image.

Question #11: What do you do for their teeth?

We don’t brush their teeth. We buy bones with cheese or peanut butter in them. They love to chew on those. We also buy treats for them. Both help with keeping their teeth and gums healthy. There are all kinds of dental treats out there and even regular treats that can help them with their teeth.

Question #12: What kind of toys should I buy?

Answer: We learned this one the hard way, so please take my advice on this one. I now go into the pet stores and ask where their pet alligator toy department is. I get looks of shock and horror, but it’s the truth! Their bite pressure is 500 psi give or take. Add to it their body strength, you now have a dog that makes it his/her destiny to see how long it will take to destroy a toy. So choose the toys wisely, and know that no matter what you buy, you’ll have to buy more again soon. These toys also help with their teething.

Plush toys- don’t even bother. Those things don’t even last half a day. Their cute but not after a Saint gets done with it.

Squeaker toys- oh they love them! They have this goal to see who can destroy the toy the fastest and get to the squeaker first. We buy them anyway because they’re so cute to watch play.

Ropes- definitely get the ropes. Saints need to build their strength and their favorite game is tug a war. You’ll have to buy a few because they will not last too long. Be sure to get the strongest they have in the size that fits the puppy-to-dog stages.

Balls and other toys- tennis balls won’t last. You need the hard plastic and tire rubber type toys. Find toys that is rated for the strongest biters. They are going to be the ones that last the longest. Just because he/she is a puppy doesn’t mean they can’t destroy a toy.

And if you have any scrap pieces of wood, Saints love to chew on it. They don’t swallow the wood, but it gives them something to chew on during teething. And they love Croc shoes as well.

Question #13: We want a puppy with a great personality. What kind of personality do they have?

Answer: I wish I could answer that, but that’s a tough one that is based solely on you the new owner. While the babies are in our care, they receive tons of love and attention. They get loads of play time with not just their siblings, but with us and the adult dogs. They have toys to play with as well. However, if you don’t continue in raising them in love and giving them attention, their personality will change to the environment that they are in. They are no different than raising your children.

Question #14: We want to personally come see the puppies and pick one out. We don’t want to go by what’s in pictures. Can we do this?

I go into great detail about this on the Here Come The Puppies page. Instead of putting it all on here and repeating myself, please check out that page. If you have further questions, please let me know.

Question #15: There are so many scams out there, how can I know that you are real? My question back is, how do I know you are not a scam as well?

For one, it costs us a lot of money and time to put this elaborate of a website together and keep it updated and running. The website has tons of info, pictures, videos, and reviews from people who have adopted our puppies in the past. In addition, it costs us a lot of money to be members of the AKC, let alone a lot money to register each dog and each litter. We keep the records up-to-date about our dogs and litters on the AKC website at all times. Then there’s the Facebook and Instagram pages that I do regular updates on as well. I include updates that I get from owners of our past litters. The website includes those updates on the past litters section. AND, I do offer video calls, via Apple phones or WhatsApp. You will have to schedule the date/time for video chats, due to the busy schedule I have on the farm. But, if that helps ease your mind on adopting a puppy, I definitely can do that. In fact, I have done many FaceTime phone calls to prove that we are legitimate breeders.

As breeders, we are also scammed a lot as well. In fact, the AKC now regulates what information we can put on the marketplace to protect us and our pets. It doesn’t stop the scammers. Scammers are going to scam, and unfortunately, everyone has a story to tell about how they got scammed. I get emails, texts, and messages on the AKC and social media that I have to carefully decipher whether the person is legitimate or not. It’s frustrating for sure. I’ve had people claim they want a puppy, meet at the public location, and they never show up. This is another reason a non-refundable deposit is required.

So I do what I can on my part to prove that we are legitimate. However, some people just can’t accept what I do as legitimate. I’ve had many people still demand to see the puppies in person. I will NOT do that for the safety of my family and our pets. Like I mention in the Here Come The Puppies page, my home is not a pet store to shop for puppies. You’ll just have to find someone else to adopt from. As far as we are concerned, you could be a scammer coming on our property to attack us and steal our pets.

Question 16: Will the Saints colors change?

I can tell you that all Saints change colors as they age. None of our adult Saints are the same colors that they were when we got them. As far as their “design” that they might display on their coats, those designs may enhance more as they age. They may even develop a “black” outline around the design. Each of our Saints have done something different. But all of them have adjusted in color. To see exactly what I mean, check out our Here Come The Saints page and look at the pictures.

Question #17: How does the waitlist work?

I went into great detail about this on the Waitlist Information page. Instead of putting it all on here and repeating myself, please check out that page. If you have further questions, please let me know.

Question #18: What do you do about the dewclaws?

I choose to leave the dewclaws on all our puppies and dogs. Every vet will have their own opinion on this, but I feel it’s necessary for the puppies/dogs to have. The dewclaws are like thumbs or the big toes. It helps them with grasping items, like their toys, balls, and even food. It also helps with traction when they run on snow or slippery surfaces. I also feel that if the good Lord made them to have dewclaws, then there’s a reason for them. Why get rid of something God deemed necessary?

Question #19: You’ve named the dog, according to the pictures online. Can we change them?

Absolutely! I am not one to just give the babies a number or name them based on the color of the collar that I may have on them. Nothing against those that do it this way. But for me, it just seems so impersonal. We love these babies. Our own babies gave birth to them. They are our grandbabies. So we do name the babies, but they are not named that on their registration with the AKC. If you decide to adopt one of our babies, you can tell me what you want to name him/her, and we’ll start calling the baby that name. Once you register your baby with the AKC, you officially name it for the records.

Question #20: Do Saint Bernards work good for therapy or service dogs?

We are not doctors or therapists to know for sure on that question. However, just about any dog can be trained to help children, veterans, and others who are in need of therapy. Saints are gentle giants that are very loving. They can be very sociable animals as well. Saints thrive on making their owners happy. They can be stubborn, but they aim to please. They learn quickly, as long as you are consistent with your training. There are different programs out there that you can get your puppy involved in to train him/her to be a therapy dog or a service dog. It is up to you the owner to help make that happen.

From our personal experience, we have had people adopt our Saints and used them as therapy for children and used with Veterans with PTSD. My cousin adopted one of our puppies. He is a Veteran and has PTSD. The Saint has been a blessing and true help for him. I suffer with anxiety. Our Saints have been very soothing for me when my anxiety gets high. They tend to sense when I need to have them near me.

Question #21: I have disabilities. Will a Saint Bernard be a good dog to help protect me?

Yes! They love their family. They will be nannies to your children and grandchildren. They’ll protect the family and the property.

Our dogs have a very keen sense of smell, hearing, and always on alert. They can smell when there are other animals or people close by long before we see them. They will start barking to alert us. Example: our dogs started barking late at night. We went outside to see what they were barking at. We didn’t see or smell anything. But a few minutes later, we saw what they were barking at. It was a fire about a mile down the road. This has happened a couple of times. Another example: we live out in the country and there are lots of coyote packs that run around close by. The dogs always sense when they are close to us. As soon as the coyotes start howling, our dogs will bark- sounding off an alert to the coyotes to stay away. The coyotes shut up immediately and stay away. And another example: the dogs even recognize engines of a vehicle long before the vehicle is in site. I know when one of my kids are coming down the road just by looking at my dogs’ responses. So to us, they are very smart and very protective of us, of our land, and of each other.

Question #22: What kind of genetic testing have you done on your dogs?

We have not had any genetic testing done on our dogs. Those tests costs a few thousand dollars and we are not willing to spend the money on such uncertain tests. Here’s the thing with tests: the parents could be tested and find no issues what so ever. However, that doesn’t mean that one of their babies doesn’t get sick or have health issues. Or, one of the parents or both could have a health issue. But again, that doesn’t mean their babies will be ill or have issues. It’s the same with humans. Genetics play some role in our lives, but it’s not an all or nothing scenario.

As I mentioned before, our dogs are healthy. Thanks be to God. We take our dogs to the vet regularly for their physicals. Our vet has never found an issue. We do preventative meds – heartworm, cranberry pills, joint pain relief, etc. We keep their environment clean and safe to the best of our ability. We do the same for the puppies.

Question #23: I’ve heard it’s recommended that puppies are not picked up until week 10-12. Can I wait that long?

I’m not sure who would recommend that. That’s not even logical thinking in my opinion. Most puppies are weaned from their mom by 6 weeks at the very latest. They get their first vaccine by week 6. Another vaccine would be due at 9 weeks, 12 weeks, and 16 weeks. Breeders are not going to continue to feed and doctor puppies if they don’t have to. That starts getting very costly. And the longer they have the puppies, the more the puppies become attached to that home life. That makes it more challenging for the puppy. Separation anxiety will happen. We have adopted puppies from other breeders. We have never had to wait more than 7 weeks to pick up the puppy. And my discussions with other breeders and our vet are all of the same mind- 7 weeks is perfectly fine. Airlines require 8 weeks. But anything after 8 weeks, isn’t beneficial or logical for the puppies or the breeders.

Saints are XXL dogs. Their puppies grow fast and need more than mama’s milk by 3 weeks. And mama can only supply so much. Saints have 8-14 puppies a litter, but they only have 8 teats (nipples). The puppies have to share the milk. So they are ready for more food so they can grow and get the nutrients that they need.

We start introducing the puppies to soft puppy food and water at 3-4 weeks of age. They are weaned from mama as soon as they can figure out how to eat solid food. That’s usually no later than 4-5 weeks. By then moms are tired of being a mom and ready to get back to their normal relaxing life. As a mom, I can totally understand that. ha!

And as I mentioned, the longer the puppies are with us, the more attached they become. They are out amongst the adult dogs full time by week 7. They become attached to each other. Saints are family. The puppies become part of their pack. So it becomes more and more difficult for the puppy to leave. Separation anxiety is a real thing among animals. As we do with our dogs, we try to keep a stress free environment for all the animals including the puppies.

All of these reasons are why we need the puppies picked up as close to the 7 week time frame as possible. Plus, I get attached to them as well and then I suffer separation anxiety.

Question #24: Will the puppy be a dry mouth?

What kind of fun is that to have a dry mouth St Bernard? In all honesty, I truly believe there is no such thing. God made them droolers for a reason. So if they don’t drool, I would wonder what’s wrong with them. Now, we do have Nana and Autumn that do not drool a whole lot. But there is still some drool. Abigail does some but in moderation. Bear, Copper, and Sierra slobber and would make Beethoven (the movie) proud. Will you end up with a big time drooler? That’s hard to say. Some will in small amounts and some will be impressive with the amount of slobber. The slobbering usually comes about by one year of age, sometimes earlier and sometimes later. Enjoy it. It’s what makes them unique from other dogs.

Question #25: What is the difference between a smooth and rough coat? What will my puppy be?

I totally disagree with the “terms” they use to describe a dog’s coat. Rough to me means exactly that- rough. But instead to the dog world, rough coat means it’s long and fluffy. Long and fluffy usually results then in more shedding. But it’s not rough at all! It’s fluffy and absolutely beautiful! Smooth, on the other hand, is short fur. That usually means little to no shedding. It’s soft but not soft like the “rough” coat.

Bear is full on “rough” coat. His fur is thick, long, and fluffy. Copper also has a “rough” coat but his isn’t as long as Bear’s. Nana is smooth coat. Sierra is unique. She has a mixture of both. After a pregnancy, she sheds a lot of fur. Her back is “rough” and the rest of her body is “smooth”. When she’s not pregnant, her whole body goes back to “rough”, but not thick like Bear’s. Autumn is “smooth” coat. Abigail is mostly “rough” (just not thick like Bear’s) but has some “smooth”.

HOWEVER, what are dogs are doesn’t really give us a full on clue what the puppies will be. In genetics, like with humans, a baby can be more like a grandparent, an aunt, or an uncle than a parent. For example, my son Caleb looks a lot like my great-great grandpa! The similarities are crazy! I see a lot of my granny in my daughter Jessyca. Genetics just plays such a role in animals that it’s impossible to be 100% sure. So I always tell people you have a 50/50 chance. By the time they are 7 weeks old, I can give a better guess of what they will be. But it’s not a 100% guarantee either. Just like with humans changing as they grow older, puppies do the same thing.

Question #26: When should I neuter or spay my puppy? Is it wise to do so?

From the research I have done and from what our vet’s opinion has been, it is best to wait until the puppy is at least 1-2 years old. For females, it’s best to let her have her first heat and then have her fixed. For St. Bernards, females usually go into heat by age 15 months. However, that’s just the average time. We have had one female be 18-24 months before she had her first heat. Their attitudes do change a bit during that time. For males, it’s not uncommon for them to have more aggression. For females they get really flirty and loving and then can get very moody. If you’ve had teenagers, you know what I’m talking about! Or you can at least remember your teenage years going through puberty and hormones! It’s no different with dogs. A lot of veterinarians believe that having your dog fixed can help to prevent some life threatening diseases and cancers. And sometimes if a dog suffers separation anxiety, getting him/her fixed can help. Our suggestion is to talk to your vet about this and make the best decision possible for your dog.

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IMPORTANT!!!!!!

Please make sure your vet knows a lot about St Bernards. Not all vets have common knowledge of the XXL breeds. XXL breeds require a whole different care than the small-large breeds. The last thing you want is for them to misdiagnose, give the wrong amount of meds, use the wrong size of medical equipment, etc, to take care of your dog. Shop around until you find a vet qualified to take care of your St. Bernard.

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As I get more questions that I feel need to be on here, I’ll add to the list. But for now, this is a good start up to go by. Again, this is our advice based on our experiences and also what our vet advises. Please do what you feel is right, and what your vet says. And most of all, remember to just love and play with them. They’ll want to spend as much time with you as they can. They love being around their owners. They also love to be praised!

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WORD OF CAUTION PLEASE: I am always trying to learn more so that I can be the best breeder possible and ensure that not only our pets are in good health, but their babies are as well. Our animals are family and are treated as such. We take good care of them because they mean the world to us. And I hope you feel the same way about your pets and the puppy you adopt from us.

I’m not a total advocate of all natural products, but at the same time, I’m also not sold out on medicines. There are ingredients in products that can cause major or minor issues in all of our pets. And I want to share with you what I am learning in my research.

The medicine Simparica Trio (used for flea, ticks, heartworms/roundworms/hookworms) can and will cause seizures! That statement was made by a vet. If you are using this product, I advise you to discuss it with your vet to understand what his/her thoughts are on that medicine. But personally, I’d find a different preventive medicine so that you do not run a risk of seizures in your pets. If you have to put your pet on seizure meds, it can cause liver & kidney issues to that pet. So be proactive and research what is the healthiest for your pet. Seizures are scary and can happen to all animals for all different reasons that are known or unknown by the vets. But when you do know what can cause the seizures, please avoid those scenarios for the well-being of your pets.

Certain foods can also cause health concerns. It’s not uncommon for Saint Bernards, or other dogs, to be allergic to chicken and turkey. With the recent scare of egg shortage, due to a certain ingredient put in the feed, it’s enough to set off alarms as to what all they are putting in our pets’ foods. I’m not saying you need to do raw food for your pets. I am saying though, be careful and alert as to what all you are feeding your pets. If you see a behavioral change or the pet becomes sick, not only take the pet to the vet, but also stop feeding the pet that food. It’s highly possible, your pet is allergic to that food.

A pond that has algae in it, can cause health problems to your pets. Be sure to keep your pond treated, but treat it with ingredients that are safe for your pets and any animals that live in the pond or drink from your pond.

If you see your pet digging and then he/she starts acting strange or not eating, please know that the pet could have eaten or inhaled a parasite. Our earth is filled with bacteria and parasites, so there is a strong possibility that could happen. Parasites can be deadly to your pet. Take the pet to the vet immediately if that should happen.

I strongly encourage you to do thorough research to know what kinds of medicines and/or supplements you want to give to your pet. Do research on what foods you want to feed them. Make your decision and give it a try. But be flexible enough to adjust if need be for the well-being of your pets. Love them like family because they are family.

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